INTRODUCTION TO NATIVE PLANTS IN THE LANDSCAPE

Evaline Woodrey
September 2001

We live in a dynamic, bio-diverse ecosystem dependent on naturally occurring, living organisms. Therefore, observing Mother Nature and her management style is very educational. It has taken millions of years for nature to achieve this delicate balance, but it is being destroyed daily. If we continue to destroy our indigenous plants and animals, how long will it be before we destroy ourselves? The following will assist you in your journey of discovery into the land of native plant gardening.

SOIL

It is important to match the plant to the soil in which it is growing in its native habitat. This is a general rule that can sometimes be broken. As you begin to study native plants you will find that some are VERY versatile, growing in both wet and dry conditions, sand or clay soil, full sun or partial shade, even sometimes in full shade as well. Bed preparation can be minimal or nonexistent. If you wish to go with nonexistent, then plant selection is critical. I would suggest organic style bed preparation, disturbing the soil as little as possible and never under trees. Some plants such as bluebonnets want no fertilization at all, others will respond favorably to light applications of an organic fertilizer, and yes, the organic way is better for natives. Again, think Mother Nature. How does she treat her plants in the wild? She uses the dead parts of the plant to rejuvenate (fertilize) themselves on the spot, so, if at all possible, put the pruned material back on the ground from which it was produced. When broken up or cut into small pieces, it blends well with the mulch. Speaking of mulch, it is helpful to mulch native plants. But if you wish the plant to reseed, heavy mulch will deter the seedlings. Light mulch, which allows the seeds to reach the soil underneath, is good. The ancient prairies were constantly mulched and revitalized by their own dead plant material.

DESIGN

Designing a native plant garden is very much like designing any landscape. You start with the bones: large trees first, next understory trees and shrubs, which are especially good for wildlife. Then, plant evergreens in the beds that must look good year round. When considering evergreen plants, native grasses are a must to consider as a substitute. They may not all be evergreen, but they add color to the winter landscape as do many berried plants. One principle of true native plant gardening is reducing the size of the lawn area. Lawns use the greatest amount of water in any landscape and provide no benefit to wildlife. There are many useful ground covers for a naturalistic look that will benefit both birds and butterflies. Some flower insignificantly, such as Horseherb. This plant can be walked on, mowed to look like lawn (well not exactly) and will not die if not watered, although it does die back in the winter. Then, so do our lawn grasses. When planning individual beds be sure to group plants that require the same growing conditions. Use water-loving plants in one area (but I don't recommend using them at all), drought tolerant plants together in another, etc. Sun loving plants here in Texas will not be disadvantaged with some afternoon shade.

PLANT MATERIAL

The first rule is to buy from a reliable nursery. The number of nurseries selling natives is growing, but you may have to look a little harder for them. There are demonstration gardens in the area so that you may view these plants in a garden setting. These gardens are required by the State organization of the Native Plant Society to use only native plants found growing within a 50-mile radius. A nurseryman from this area recommends 100 miles. As you become more knowledgeable about plants from your area, you may wish to experiment. However, there is a very valid theory that plants not indigenous to the area are beginning to outnumber the true natives, growing in what used to be pristine areas. I know this is a hard sell, but become aware of this and pay attention to such items in the news.

MAINTENANCE

A native plant garden is earth-friendly if maintained organically, and there is no reason to do otherwise. Again, remember Mother Nature. It is also much less expensive in the long run and above all, extremely healthy for both you, your pets and your garden. Weeding will be minimal and pruning and cutting back of perennials will need to be done only once or twice a year. Then there is the water-saving aspect. A newly planted native garden must be watered regularly the first year and perhaps a second year, depending upon the plant's vigor in establishing itself. Once established, a native plant garden may need little or no supplemental water. Planting in the fall and utilizing the fall and spring rains is the best way to get your plants off to a good start before the summer drought and heat set in. Plants put on a lot of root growth in the cool months. What about those pesky bugs we all seem to have? Again, ask yourself "How have native plants survived for millennia?" By developing their own defenses. Personal observation has shown that native plants are either not attacked at all, or are harmed very little by the voracious grasshopper. This is just one of many observations about insect and disease resistance. Last, but not at all least, is the rule of planting a plant that obtains the ultimate height desired and gets no taller. If you want a low maintenance landscape, this is a cardinal rule. As you can see, the above maintenance WILL ultimately give you a low, to no, maintenance landscape. Perfect for those of you who are either too busy, wish to travel or are getting to the point of not being able to do many chores. But, ultimately, this is for the world. For an eco-friendly garden. For the birds and butterflies and any other critters that may come your way. And for the pristine native areas that are struggling for their existence!