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Contents
Upcoming Events
Program Notes
Club Activities
Winter’s arrival
Featured Plant
Garden Design
Endemic Plants
Garden Guides
Resource List
Club Information
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The holidays are over but it is still cold out. However, for
the native plant gardener it is time to think of planting those new
planting beds or plan changes in the current beds. This issue of the
newsletter explores some aspects of garden design you may want to
consider. For hikers and plant rescuers, it is also time to plan. This
year, you might want to work on documenting your finds and identifying the Texas endemic plants located in our county. Supporting information is given in the article
on endemic plants.
I would like to give special thanks to Reid Lewis (Sweetbriar
Nursery) and Agnes Plutino for their review of the plant and garden guide
information. Also thanks to Susan Waitz for program information and program
notes, Marilyn Perz for the photographs of the pot luck supper/silent
auction and field trip information, Kathy McCormack for her class survey, Agnes
Plutino for her wonderful thoughts on winter’s arrival and always to Jason
Spangler for his support in placing this newsletter onto our web site and
information on prairies.
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Upcoming Events
February Meeting Program
February 8; 7:00 PM
Williamson County Agriculture Center
Organic Solutions to
Everyday Gardening Problems
by Judy Barrett
Judy Barrett is the founding editor and publisher of the
bimonthly newsmagazine, “Homegrown: Good Sense Organic Gardening for Texas,” which is based in Taylor. She was also editor and publisher of Malcolm Beck’s
book, “The Garden-Ville Method”. She has served as editor of the “The New
Garden Journal”, as well as host of the public television series “The New
Garden”. Judy is an experienced herbalist and cookbook author, having
published “Tomatillos: A Gardeners Dream, A Cook’s Delight”. She also wrote
the book “How to Become an Organic Gardener in 7 Easy Steps”. She continues
to write articles for many gardening related publications. “Homegrown” is
typically available at our meetings and at many garden centers. You can also
get a sample by going on line to http://www.homegrowntexas.com/.
There’s also an associated web site called the Texas Garden Web Ring which
provides information on organic gardening, wildlife, and butterflies. This
site can be accessed by clicking on http://www.mindspring.com/~roadrunner1/garden/TexasRing.html.
March Meeting Program
March 8; 7:00 PM
Georgetown Public Library
Dried Plant/Flower
Arranging by Betty Hughes
Betty Hughes is a member of the Sequin NPSOT chapter and will
lead a hands-on demonstration creating beautiful arrangements for your home
or office using dried native plants. She led the group who made the
arrangements for the San Antonio Symposium. Start collecting interesting grasses,
seed pods, plant parts, and any other native plant parts to be used in making
arrangements. Betty will also bring materials with her so everyone can
participate. Bring your own containers in which to make the arrangements.
Styrofoam bases will be provided.
Public Information Meeting
Proposed Georgetown Tree Ordinance
Wednesday; February 7; 1:30 PM
Hewlett Room
Georgetown Public Library
402 West 8th
Street
This presentation is brought to you by the City Manager’s office
and the Planning & Development Department. For more information about
the meeting, please call 512-930-2545.
The ordinance should go to the second and hopefully final reading
at the City Council Meeting on February 13 at 6:00 PM. Plan to attend this meeting if you are interested.
Work Day
Saturday; February 10; 10:00 AM-2 PM
Old Machu Cemetery Prairie at Granger Lake
(Directions will be
available at February 8 meeting)
Please bring your own tools if possible (such as loppers, pruning
saws, other tools to cut small trees). Also bring gloves, water, and a snack
or sack lunch for yourself. For more information, contact Scott Lenharth at Scott_Lenharth@Dell.com or Marilyn Perz at dmperz@thegateway.net.
Annie Purl Elementary School Science Night
1700 Laurel Street
Georgetown
March 1; 6-7:30 PM
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We have been invited to participate in
"Science Night" at Annie Purl Elementary School at 1700 Laurel Street in Georgetown. We will provide hands on experience for the students and
their parents by teaching them to make recycled paper seed starter
butterflies.
This is part of our outreach from the Heritage Gardens which is adjacent to the school. In addition to the Bluebird garden that
we maintain along the trail there, we are working with Natalie Vreeland,
Horticulturist at the Heritage Garden to identify an area to be left as a
wildflower meadow this Spring. She will protect this area
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from mowing and we will add additional
wildflower seeds. This meadow can then be used as a destination for
fieldtrips from the school and increase the students’ awareness of the more
wild side of gardening.
Please consider volunteering to help with
this project and see Janet Church or Marilyn Perz at our February meeting.
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Cibolo Nature Center’s 17th Annual Mostly Native Sale
Kendall County Fair Grounds
HWY 46 in Boerne, Texas
Saturday; April 7, 9 AM to 4 PM
More than 30 nurseries and plant-related vendors will show their
Hill Country roots during the 17th Annual Mostly Native Plant Sale on
Saturday, April 7 from 9 a.m. – 4 p.m., at the Kendall County Fair Grounds on
Highway 46 in Boerne. The event is two dollars for adults and children under
twelve are free, open to the public and a great alternative to the hustle and
bustle of Fiesta activities.
Both experienced gardeners and novices alike will benefit from
the free demonstrations and presentations held throughout the day. Topics
include pruning trees and shrubs, wildscaping, building bird boxes, composting
and water conservation.
All of the vendors donate some of their proceeds to the Cibolo Nature Center located on 100 acres adjacent to the fair grounds. The goal of the
nature center is to protect greenspace through public education and
conservation advocacy. The CNC serves as a nature center for the City of Boerne and focuses its programs on education and protection of the Southern Hill Country
region.
For more information or details, call the Cibolo Nature Center at (830) 249-4616 or send email to nature@cibolo.org.
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Meeting
Notes
By Susan Waitz
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Meeting minutes can be found on the website http://www.npsot.org/WilliamsonCounty/.
Copies will be available at the meeting.
January 11 Program Notes
Our Speaker for January was Pat McNeal from NcNeal Growers in Manchaca.
His talk, "Don't Blame The Plants" gave a unique view of
horticulture and was in-depth in explaining why many planted gardens and
landscapes fail. Pat has over 20 years experience working with natives, and
a background in ecology and botany.
From his experience, he has seen horticulture historically
approached similar to agriculture. A location is amended to fit the plants
which the grower wants to grow there, regardless of the location's inherent
suitability for the chosen crop/plant. Therefore, soil tests are done and
huge amounts of money are spent on chemicals and soil amendments to allow
non-native plants to grow on the site.
From a horticultural perspective, the opposite approach makes
more sense. Observe the location and determine which natives will grow on
the site without any amendments at all! The result of this approach is more
success with the garden, less money spent on purchasing plants to replace
dying specimens, less money and work amending the soil and constantly adding
chemicals, less water use, and ultimately less work and more enjoyment of
your garden.
Your yard or garden area may contain many different
"mini-ecosystems" and plant choices must be made accordingly.
Annuals and early succession species do best in disturbed soils. Cedar Elms
need about 3 feet of soil. Pecans and Post Oaks need 6 feet of soil.
Grasses need less moisture and will grow in shallower soils and in heavy
clay. Trees do not do well in clay, since when the clay dries out and cracks
it can break the roots as well. Grasses can re-grow their root systems
(normally replace 30-40% of roots every year). On shallow, rocky slopes
(well-drained) woody plants will thrive (Mountain Laurel, Evergreen Sumac).
Cedar, Live Oak, sedges, Pavonia's and Turk's Cap will thrive in shallow soil
with rocky outcrops
In restoring bare, disturbed soil start with early succession
plants as late stage plants will not find the necessary biological agents in
the soil for successful germination. You must allow the area to evolve for 4
or 5 years until the location is ready for later stages. Full prairie
restoration takes thousands of years, but a half dozen successional steps can
sometimes short-circuit to 3 stages, 4-5 years apart. The micro-organisms
in the soil must develop to the point where mycorrhizal fungi is present to
support climax plants. The hyphae, root hairs of the fungus penetrate the
root cells of the plant and can extend the root system of the plant 100X.
Prairies do not support trees well as bacteria in the soil supports the
plants, and fungi is not yet sufficiently present.
Look around your neighborhood for plants which have the same
growing conditions as your desired garden area. Go to parks and preserves
and observe the plants and their growing conditions. Local nurseries can
also help to choose specimens which can thrive in your yard
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Club Activities
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December 2006 Pot Luck/Silent Auction
The December pot luck and silent auction was held December 14 at
the Williamson County Agriculture Center. The following two pictures show
the club members enjoying the great buffet.
 
The next three pictures were shot during the silent action. In
the first picture, Phyllis Dolich and Billye Adams are choosing plants
donated Vicky and Joseph Husband. In the second picture, members review the
auction items. The final picture shows Kathy Galloway accepting payment for
auction items from Ken Shoen.
 
Greenhill Rescue Site
The Greenhill rescue site is still open. Plenty of rosettes have
been spotted and are ready to be dug. The land to the south of Greenhill is
also available for plant rescue. It has not been mowed so it is easy to spot
the dead stalks of Liatris sp. (Gayfeather) for those who are interested.
Watch out for poison ivy in the tree line separating the two sites.
Greenhill a small street going off of Old Settler’s Road (FM 3406) in Round
Rock. It is across the street from Toppan and have several very large for
sale signs on the property.
Plant Classes Survey Summary
In December 2006, the NPSOT WC Chapter conducted a survey of its
members to gauge the interest in plant classes which might be organized in
2007. Twenty (20) responses were received from the December monthly meeting,
and 13 responses were received from email for a total of 33 responses.
Sixteen (16) people indicated that they were not interested in taking any
plant classes (11 blank survey forms returned at the monthly meeting plus
five email responses). Of the 17 people who indicated an interest in taking
plant classes in 2007 (52 % of the total responses), the preferences were:
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Topic
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Number of responses
from those interested in classes
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Native Trees, Shrubs, Vines, Grasses, Ferns, Forbs, and/or
Cacti of Central Texas
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15 (22 %)
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Native Plant Propagation
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11 (16 %)
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Wildflowers of Central Texas – this topic may need to be broken
down into smaller areas…...
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10 (15 %)
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Beginning and/or Intermediate Botany
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9 (13 %)
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Edible Native Plants of Central Texas – flowers, herbs, fruits,
nuts, and/or berries
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8 (12 %)
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Aquatic and/or Fragrant Native Plants of Central Texas
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7 (10 %)
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Invasive Plants of Central Texas – trees, shrubs, vines,
grasses, ferns, forbs, flowers, and/or aquatics
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4 (6 %)
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Native Plants in other areas of Texas
Which areas ? Edwards Plateau, S TX, W TX, SW TX
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3 (4 %)
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Do you have any additional plant classes to suggest ?
Visit
largest/oldest specimen trees/shrubs in the Count
Historical
uses of plants (e.g., dyes, etc.)
Land
management – identify natives vs. non-natives
Care
and maintenance
Lady
Bird Johnson Wildflower Center (LBJWC) classes
Native
plant guilds (i.e., permaculture)
Related
soil biology
How
to identify plants (trees, shrubs, perennials, etc.) when not flowering (both
mature and immature)
“Native
Plants and Plant Communities of Central Texas” which could teach people not
only the individual native plants, but also the native plant communities
(groups of native plants that grew together) that make up our native
ecosystems (the vegetative part of our natural world): the Blackland Prairie
(mostly tallgrass prairies) to the east, the Lampasas Cut Plains (prairies
and woodlands) to the west, and the Edwards Plateau (savanna, woodlands, and
streams) to our southwest
Would you be willing to participate in a class where everyone
takes turns leading the discussion/study ?
Yes
= 9
No
= 4
Maybe
= 1
Would you be willing to teach any of these classes ? And/or
can you recommend anyone who may be willing to teach any of these classes ?
If so, which one(s) ?
Seven
members volunteered to either teach, co-teach, or help develop/coordinate a
class – Thank You !! Topics included plant propagation and wildflowers.
Five
additional instructor resources were suggested from The Nature Conservancy, Texas Parks and Wildlife Department, and Texas A&M University.
Any other comments ?
Include
color photos/slides/maps in the class materials
Class
costs ?
Class
times ?
Ask
LBJWC for additional instructor suggestions
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Winter’s
Arrival
by Agnes Plutino
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Winter finally arrived in Williamson County on Saturday, January
13th with flooding rains. After a brief lull on Sunday, an icy
mix set in. It was enough to shut down most schools and many businesses
until the following Thursday.
While all this was going on, I took time to sort thru papers,
read a few gardening articles, cook up a bit of food to have on hand in case
of a power outage, make sure I had fresh batteries in the radio and
flashlight, and numerous other odds and ends.
The most fun I had was making sure the birds had food and fresh
water. I say it was fun but getting out in the cold is not my idea of fun.
What made it fun was watching the birds chow down. I’ve been trying to take
pictures thru the window of the birds at the feeder. I’ve had varying
degrees of success. Using a digital camera makes the effort much easier. If
the photo does not come out I just delete it. I definitely save money on
film and developing.
This has been a perfect time to read through my gardening
magazines and the one mail order catalog I still get. I use the catalog from
High Country Gardens in Santa Fe, New Mexico as a reference guide when I shop
locally for new natives. It is amazing what you can find in our own local
native plant nurseries. I’m not saying I’ve never bought a plant at one of
the big boxes but I am saying that it is a rare occasion.
There are two gardening magazines that I rely on. The first is
Judy Barrett’s “Homegrown” and second is the “Texas Gardener” magazine. Judy
publishes out of her home in Taylor. Her magazine is available either by
subscription($15 a year and a sure way to receive it) or as a freebie at the
nurseries that advertise in the magazine. For more information go to the
website at www.HomegrownTexas.com.
The Texas Gardener magazine is published in Waco and is available for $21.95
a year. For more information go to www.texasgardener.com.
Both magazines are appropriate for the entire state of Texas. It only makes
sense to read material that is appropriate for the area in which we live. I
just found out at the January meeting that Judy Barrett will be our speaker
at our February 8th meeting. I am really looking forward to
hearing what Judy has to say.
As I write this article I watch a Mockingbird successfully defend
his territory. He is so defensive that he even chased the other birds away
from a nearby feeder. He wasn’t using the feeder. The feeder was just to
close to his Chinese Pistasche (I know, it’s not native and I’m really hoping
it doesn’t turn out to be invasive. I’d hate to cut it down) and the Yaupons
and Possumhaws. I set up feeders in other locations, which seems to be
working. All sorts of nice garden birds show up, especially in this nasty
weather. My favorites are chickadees, cardinals, and tiny little
kinglets(Diane identified the little guy for me). There are lots of
sparrows, red-wing blackbirds, finches, a few doves, and other little guys that
I have yet to identify. I find it amazing how resourceful they are.
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Before it got so chilly, I was wandering out in my prairie each
day. Although they are much harder to spot there, the birds are taking
advantage of the tall grasses and the seed heads on the various prairie
plants. Whenever I am tempted to “tidy up” the garden this time of year I
think of the critters out there and how they use all that litter as cover
and food sources. I know that soon enough it will be time to “tidy up”,
but not yet. Besides it gives me something to look at. What I do enjoy
doing is looking for and identifying the various rosettes of the native
prairie plants that will give me beautiful bloom in the coming months.
From what I can see, the Bluebonnets should have a good year. There are
lots of rosettes, fairly small and fairly close to the ground. Someone
asked me recently about when to plant bluebonnet seed. Although most
experts recommend planting in September and October, which probably is good
advice for a first time planting, I suggest flinging them where you want
them as soon as they ripen and dry after their spring bloom. Think about
it. This is what happens in nature. Once they are
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established, you can keep a nice display going year after year
unless something such as the big perennials and large grasses move in to out
compete them. It depends on what you want.
I mentioned “tidying up” above. By the time you read this it
will be just about time to “tidy up” the garden. As a rule of thumb I use February
15th as my start date. It depends on how many plants are
involved. Woody perennials such as Salvias, Turk’s cap, Flame acanthus, etc.
pretty much show you what needs cutting back. Anything that is obviously
dead. A lot of plants will die down to the roots and need to be cut back
hard. Others just need a bit of tip pruning. This is all information you
gain by experience and talking to other gardeners. One practice that I
really have a hard time with is the cutting back of ornamental grasses. I
just don’t think it is necessary to whack them back so hard. It’s one of
those things the landscape maintenance folks got started and it is a hard
habit to break. What I like to do is “rake” out the ugly stuff with a stiff
rake of some sort. I use a stiff shrub rake. On the smaller grasses I get
down on the ground and use one of my hand cultivators as a rake. Anything
that “combs” or “rakes” will work.
I’m looking forward to the spring and hope you are too.
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Featured
Plant
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Photo: WFC
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Viguiera stenoloba is a small evergreen shrub that grows in
rocky, alkaline, fast draining soil. It is locally abundant in dry desert
or sub-desert areas in the Trans-Pecos and Rio Grande Plains and infrequent
in the western part of the Edwards Plateau. This shrub can also be found in
New Mexico and south and west to Durango, Coahuila, Nuevo Leon, and Tamaulipas counties in Mexico. Average rainfall is 12-16“ a year or less.
V. stenoloba forms a much branched, mounding shrub with a
moderate growth rate to 3 feet high and 2-3 feet wide. The
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leaves are dark green. Lower leaves are skeletal (sharp deep
lobes) and are up to 2.5” long and 1.5” wide. Upper leaves tend to be
linear. The yellow 1-2” daisy like flowers appear singly at the end of
stalks intermittently through the summer and heavily in the fall. The
center disk extends up to 1/3” above the petals. The flowers are followed
by a small (1/8”) dry one seeded achene. Gather the achenes as they turn
brown and begin to shatter. Spread the achenes out to air dry then store
in sealed container in the refrigerator until sowed. To propagate, scatter
seed directly on lightly raked ground in late fall or winter and water
well. You can also take 2-3” softwood cuttings after the first growth from
April to June and again in August but cuttings are often difficult to get
rooted.
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This shrub is very drought tolerant. Plant it in lean, very
well drained, alkaline soil in full to part shade although it does best
here in full sun. In areas with clay soil, consider placing this shrub in
a raised bed. It also does well in a deep pot and at the top of sloped
areas. Although it is evergreen in its native range, it may loose some or
all of its leaves here if the winter is severe but the roots will be fine
as long as the soil is not wet. This year, this plant has stayed evergreen
to date even in north facing pots. Once established, this shrub does not
need supplemental irrigation although it can take some garden water as long
as it quickly drains
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Photo: WFC
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through. Fertilizer is generally not needed and it is
recommended that a rock mulch be used. Cutting off the spent blooms will
promote the growth of new blooms. The shrub can also be cut back by up to
one half once a year if needed to reduce the size or to thicken the growth.
V. stenoloba leaves contain aromatic oils which discourage
browsing by deer. It is also a larval plant for some butterflies. It is
often used in perennial beds as well as a small shrub in front of larger
shrubs or small trees. Companion plants include those which thrive in the
same well drained, alkaline areas. Consider planting it with Mahonia
trifoliolata (Agarita), Dasylirion species (Sotol), Dalea frutescens (Black
dalea), and Penstemon species. For more information on these plants, go to
http://www.wildflower.org/.
This plant can be found at Barton Springs Nursery in Austin, Bloomers Garden Center in Elgin, Green and Growing in Pflugerville, Sweetbriar
Nursery in Belton and The Natural Gardener in Austin. McIntyres Nursery in
Georgetown can readily get plants in several sizes for you and other local
nurseries can also order this plant. It is usually sold at the Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center in both the spring and fall plant sales.
References:
- Correll, Donovan Stewart and Marshall Conring
Johnston, “Manual of the Vascular Plants of Texas,” Fourth Printing, University of Texas at Dallas, 1996.
- Nokes, Jill, “How to Grow Native Plants of Texas and the Southwest,” Revised and Updated Edition, University of Texas Press, 2001,
ISBN 0-292-75574-0.
- Wasowski, Sally and Andy, “Native Texas Plants,
Landscaping Region by Region,” Second Edition, Lone Star Books, 1998,
ISBN 0-89123-077-7.
- http://www.wildflower.org/
- http://plants.usda.gov/
- http://aggiehorticulture.tamu.edu/ornamentals/nativeshrubs/viguierastenol.htm
- http://www.efloras.org/florataxon.aspx?flora_id=1&taxon_id=250067814
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Planting
Bed Design
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The location, size, and design of the planting
beds is dependent upon the selected landscape design style, the amount of
time you wish to spend on the garden, the garden effects you are trying to
achieve, and the budget for the change. The planting bed should be
harmonious and consistent with the overall landscape design and the plants in
the bed should be consistent with the location and size of the bed. A
large bed next to the house can easily hold small trees and large shrubs as a
background for shorter plantings whereas a bed in the center of the yard may
have a small tree with a variety of smaller shrubs, perennials, and annuals.
In designing the planting bed, one needs to consider both
repetition and contrast of plant shapes. Repetition of forms pulls the
garden together but too much repetition is boring. Contrasting plant
shapes provides focal points and relief from the sameness of
repetition. Combining spike plants with mounds provides both an upward
relief and sharpness in contrast to the width and softness of the mounds.
Mist plants allow you to see other plants through a haze and provides for
greater dimension in the planting bed. Other shapes to consider are the
fountain shaped plants including many of the grasses, spreading mats, globe
shaped plants and straight upright or vase shaped plants.
Repetition can also be achieved by repeating
hardscape (such as several trellises), flower and leaf color, and plant
texture. This does not mean that all plants are of the same color or
texture, only that these characteristics are repeated throughout the bed.
Contrast is also achieved by placing plants next to hardscape
(such as native boulders), incorporating different colors combinations and or
groups, light against dark, and variations in textures. Don't forget to
include variations in leaf colors. Sometimes, the primary variation
provided in a planting bed is in variation in leaf colors and textures.
A silver-leaf plant can be stunning next to one that has dark green
foliage.
Variations in texture can be achieved with both
flowers and leaves. Try combining the tubular flowers of salvias with
the daisy like flowers of Symphyotrichum
oblongifolium (fall aster) or the rose like flowers of Pavonia lasiopetala (Rock
rose) or Calylophus
serrulatus (Yellow evening primrose). Plant leaves can vary
in size, shape, and surface. In part shade, try combining the large,
fuzzy, heart shaped leaf of Allowissadula holosericea (Velvet-leaf mallow)
with small, rough-bottom, toothed leaf Conoclinium
greggii (Gregg's mistflower), and the small, shiny,
smooth leaf Philadelphus texensis (Texas mock orange). This combination
also includes different colors of green in the foliage with the mallow medium
green, mistflower, lime-green, and mock orange dark green and different
flowers with the fuzzy mist flower contracting with simple flowers of both
the mallow and mock orange. Soft and smooth leaves and filmy flower and
grass heads are fun to touch. Note that texture can be added in other
ways. The bark of trees can be smooth, rough, peeling, etc. Rocks
and pebbles and wood used in the landscape can be rough or smooth.
Another consideration for the planting bed is
the use of scented flowers especially next to sitting areas. Be sure to
include strongly scented night blooming flowers such as Datura wrightii
(Jimson weed) next to evening entertainment areas. D. wrightii has large
white flowers which are easily seen during moonlit nights.
The typical bed viewed from one-side has taller
plants at the back of a bed with progressively shorter plants in front.
However, a planting bed will look more natural if medium sized plants
periodically weave their way to the front of the bed. Many experts
recommend that you mass enough of the same type and color of perennial or
annual to produce single color drifts that are several feet long and a foot
wide or clumps that are at least two to three feet around. Be sure to
include form and/or color focal point plants through out the planting
bed. For island beds, the only difference is that the taller plants
will be in the center of the planting bed with smaller plants at the edges of
the bed.
Planting beds can be designed for interest in
all seasons. Many trees, shrubs, and perennial plants flower in the
mild spring months. In early spring, new leaves open on winter dormant
plants. Frequently, these leaves are lighter green than the summer
foliage or have red/pink tinges. In the summer, many plants will go
dormant unless they are given supplemental water. However, there are a
number of plants that do retain their foliage and there are some native
flowering plants that bloom during this period. If supplemental water
is given, the foliage will be lush and provide an excellent background for
the flowering plants. In the autumn, there is another burst of bloom
from many native plants. Most of the clumping grasses form beautiful
fluffy heads of seeds. Later in the autumn, the leaves of many plants
that are dormant in the winter will turn to magnificent colors of yellow,
gold, orange, red, or burgundy. These colors should be integrated into
the landscape design. In winter, good design incorporates much more
than just evergreen plants. Many dormant plants have interesting bark
patterns or provide an interesting tracery of branches in front of a wall or
evergreen background. Some evergreen and dormant plants have bright
berries and some dormant plants have interesting seeds and seed pods which
will stay on the plant for extended periods. Also, don't forget the
wonderful look of dried grasses which will sway in the winds. On the
plan for the planting bed, you can note the season(s) of interest for the
plant. Because there is usually some space considerations, look for plants
that provide multiple season interest or show the same plan for each season
with the plant interest colored in. However you approach planning,
giving each season equal attention will provide an integrated look for all
seasons.
In determining the plants to be used in the
planting bed, be sure that all of the plants have the same cultural
requirements including soil, sun, and water. Many landscapes emphasize
drought tolerant plants. However, one can have a water wise garden and
still have a planting bed of plants that require more water in one part of
the garden. Finally, be sure to take the final plant width into
consideration when laying out the bed. Although the plants may be
small, they will need room to grow. Rather than placing the plants too close, fill the space between
plants with annuals or mulch until the plants begin to grow out.
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Texas Endemic
Plants in
Williamson County
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Texas has about 400 native plants that are endemic (only found within
the state) (Ref. 16). Most of these plants are found on the Edwards Plateau, the Big Bend area and the Rio Grande Plains. However, a number of them are
also found within Williamson County. The following are the 27 endemic plants
that have currently been identified as either being in or suspected of being
in this county. This list was developed using a combination of the endemic
plant list (Ref. 4) developed by Bill Carr, a local botanist, in 2002 and by
TAMU Flora of Texas Consortium project (Ref. 5) which documented an endemic
plant list for the state and for each county in 1995. Note that Bill Carr
will be our program speaker this June. The plants initially identified were
checked with the Integrated Taxonomic Information System (Ref. 6) to assure
that the current species name was identified and then that name was checked
with the recently updated USDA Natural Resources Conservation Service (Ref.
7) range maps (state and county) to assure that the plant was still endemic
to Texas and was probably within the county.
The following provides the plant list with characteristics and
pictures where available. Information provided on plant characteristics was
obtained from References 1-3, and 7-10. The basis for assuming a plant is
within the county is also noted. Most of the plant pictures were obtained
from the Lady Bird Wildflower Center, designated as (WFC) after the picture,
web site (Ref. 8). Other pictures came from Texas A&M (TAMU – Ref 10 and
11), Winston Ranch (Winston ranch – Ref 13), University of Texas Native Plant
course (UT- Ref. 12), University of North Carolina herbarium (UNC – Ref. 14)
and the USDA Natural Resources Conservation Service (USDA – Ref. 7).
Note that the number of plants identified for Williamson County is significantly less than the number currently identified for Travis County. Part of the reason is that there are a number of organizations in Travis County that are actively looking for native plants located within the county. Range
documentation requires a herbarium sample of the plant. Even if the plant
exists within the county, it is not noted unless a sample exists. Reference
15 on the NPSOT Austin web site provides information on documenting such a
sample.
|
No.
|
Family
|
Name
|
Characteristics
|
|
1
|
Acanthaceae
|
Ruellia drummondiana (Drummond’s wild petunia)
|
Perennial from short rhizome with many roots from the nodes to
about 30” high. Dense covering of hairs. Egg shaped or elliptical dark
green leaves up to 6” long and 3.5” wide. 2-7 lavender flowers to 1.5” long
from summer to fall. Seed pods spring open as they dry; seed 0.2” in diameter.
Found in wooded, riparian, often rocky areas.
|
|
2
|
Agavaceae
|
Yucca pallida (Pale yucca)
|
Note: not in latest USDA county distribution but in both Travis
and Bell counties so included here. Originally included in Y. rupicola.
Stemless evergreen perennial; forms loose colonies of 10-30 rosettes.
Flexible sage-green or bluish-green leaf lance shaped 8-20” long and
0.4-1.75” wide. Pendent flowers pale green with white edges in an elongated
cluster at the top of a 2-6’ stalk in spring. Erect seed capsules. Found in
blackland prairies.
|
|
3
|
Agavaceae
|
Yucca rupicola (Twistleaf yucca)
|
Note: some place this plant in Yucca pallida. Evergreen
perennial becoming an open clump of up to 15 leaf rosettes. Narrow,
undulate, olive-green 1-2’ long, lance shaped leaves, 1-2’ long and
0.75-1.5” wide, twist as they age. Pendent flowers white, sometimes tinged
purple, in an elongated cluster at the top of a 2.5-5’ stalk in spring.
Seed capsule. Found on limestone ledges, grass-covered plains, and open
woodlands.
|
|
4
|
Asteraceae
|
Brickellia dentata (Leafy brickellbush)
|
Upright shrub, much branched near the base to 40” high. Pale
bark. Alternate lance shaped leaves 3/16-1.5” long, 1/8-1/2” wide. 13-20
pale green or yellow flowers in cluster at end of the stalk in late summer
to fall. Single seed achene. Found in gravel of limestone streambeds.
|
|
5
|
Asteraceae
|
Silphium albiflorum (White rosinweed)
|
Taprooted, upright, hairly shrub16-40” high. Alternate, deeply
lobed leaves up to 12” long and wide. Cluster of up to 2.5” wide flower
heads in summer; 14-30 white ray flowers and 70-130 white disc flowers.
Achene. Found on barren limestone knolls and prairies.
|
|
6
|
Brassicaceae
|
Lesquerella recurvata (Plateau bladderpod, gaslight bladderpod)
|
Annual, 8-20” high, sparsely haired, branched stems erect or
sprawling. Coarsely toothed leaves up to 2” long. Cluster of 1/3-2/3”
4-petaled, yellow flowers at end of stalk in spring. Seeds about 1/16” long
and wide. Found on limestone outcrops and gravelly calcareous Blackland
prairies.
|
|
7
|
Campanulaceae
|
Triodanis coloradoensis (Colorado Venus’ looking-glass)
|
Upright, smooth annual, to 2-3’ high; solitary stem with a few
branches in upper portion. Upper leaves inversely lance shaped to
elliptical leaves to 2.75” long and 5/8” wide; lower leaves lance shaped to
1.5” long and 3/16” wide. Solitary, tubular, 5 petaled, blue to blue-violet
edged, white throat flowers to ¾” long from upper leaf axils April-June.
Linear-oblong capsule almost 1” long. Found on dry hillsides, bluffs, rocky
ledges, woods, gravel bars, and floodplains.
|
|
8
|
Cistaceae
|
Lechea san-sabeana (San Saba pinweed)
|
Not on USDA distribution but shown in counties to directly east
and west so included here. Perennial herb with aerial stems 6-14” high,
Narrow linear leaves less than 3/32” wide. Small, 3/16-1/8” round, reddish
flowers distantly spaced. 6 seeded capsule 1/16-3/32” long April-June.
Found on roadsides, fields, and sandy open woods.
|
|
9
|
Commelinaceae
|
Tradescantia humilis (Texas spiderwort)
|
Spreading, heavily branched perennial herb with stout, fleshy
roots, Small hairs on stems. Stiff, minutely haired, deep green tinged with
rose leaves to 8” long and ¾” broad. Multiple 3-petaled, purple flowers at
the end of the stems Mar-June. Capsules 1/4” long. Found on sandy or rocky
ground.
|
|
10
|
Convolvulaceae
|
Dichondra recurvata (Tharp’s ponyfoot, Oakwoods ponyfoot)
|
Small, mat forming, sparsely haired, creeping perennial rooting
at the nodes, 0.75-6.5” high. Leaves rounded heart shaped. Tiny solitary or
paired, light green to white, funnel flowers on stem from leaf nodes
March-May. 2-4 seeded fruit. Found on roadsides, gravelly or sandy open oak
woods or creeksides.
|
|
11
|
Euphorbiaceae
|
Argythamnia simulans (Plateau silverbush)
|
Trailing perennial herb with few to many, weak, freely
branching, stems up to 18” long. Elliptic to inversely lance shaped leaves
3/8-2” long and 3/16-9/16” wide. White to cream, male and female flowers
grouped on stem, 5 petals/sepals lance shaped or ovate, April-October.
Capsule. Found on dry, calcareous clay soil in grassland or scrub.
|
|
12
|
Euphorbiaceae
|
Euphorbia roemeriana (Roemer’s spurge)
|
Erect (decumbent in shade), tap rooted annual 4-12” high. Wedge
shaped leaves 1/8-3/8” long and 1/32-3/16” broad. Minute flowers in tiny
cluster surrounded by a cup like structure in spring. 10 male flowers,
yellow to yellow-green consisting only of stamens; single female flower
consists of a solitary pistil. Capsule about 1/8” thick. Locally abundant
in calcareous soils and creek canyons.
|
|
13
|
Fabaceae
|
Astragalus crassicarpus var. berlandieri (Groundplum milkvetch)
|
Herbaceous perennial with stems arising singly or few together
from slender, widely forking underground stem branches forming mats. 15-33
elliptical leaflets along a 1 3/8-6” leaf blade. Flowers with 5 purple,
lilac or pink-purple petals to 1” long in spring. Plum like fruits. Found
in soils derived from limestone or clay, gravelly areas and prairies.
|
|
14
|
Fabaceae
|
Astragalus pleianthus (Edwards Plateau milkvetch)
|
Not on USDA but shown in counties directly east, south and west
so included here. Annual with erect to decumbent stems up to 14” long. 7-9
elliptical linear elliptical leaflets 3/32-9/16” long. Clusters of 4-10
pink to purplish pea like flowers in spring. Fruits. Calcareous soils,
prairies, open woodlands.
|
|
15
|
Fabaceae
|
Astragalus wrightii (Wright’s milkvetch)
|
Erect, rigid, taprooted annual to 14” high. Long hairs on stems
and leaves. Foliage silvery becoming greenish; 7-13 leaflets along a 5/8-2
3/16” leaf blade. 3-7 red-violet, lilac, or white with lavender ½” flower
clusters in spring. Fruits ¼-1/2” long and 3/32-1/8” wide. Sandy or
gravelly ground.
|
|
16
|
Fabaceae
|
Dalea tenuis (Pinkglobe prairieclover)
|
On TAMU but not on USDA; in Travis and Bell counties so
included here. Subshrub with erect stems or stems arising at an angle.
Widely branched. 3-5 linear leaflets 3/16-1/2” long. Flowers in cone-like
spikes 3/8-1 3/16” long and ¼-3/8” thick; 5 purple-pink flower petals in
June. Found on eroding limestone slopes.
|
|
17
|
Fabaceae
|
Pediomelum hypogaeum var. scaposum (Small Indian breadroot)
|
Perennial stemless herb to 10” high with dense white hairs.
Palm like cluster of 3-7 (usually 5) elliptical leaflets 3-4 times long as
wide (5/32-1/2”). Dense spike to 1” of 1/3-1/2” long 4-lobed
lavender/purple flowers April to May. Fruit is ½-3/4” long with a firm tip.
Found in calcareous hillsides.
|
|
18
|
Fabaceae
|
Pediomelum latestipulatum var. appressum (Texas Plains Indian
breadroot)
|
Erect herb 6-14” high, typically with no lateral branches. Palm
like cluster of 5-7 elliptical or egg shaped leaflets 25/32- 1 ¾” long and
¼-5/8” broad. Blue, lavender, or purple flowers 11/16-1” long grouped in a
dense roundish cluster 1 3/8” long in March to April. Seed pod 3/8-1/2”
long. Rocky or sandy prairies.
|
|
19
|
Fabaceae
|
Tephrosia lindheimeri (Lindheimer’s hoarypea)
|
Trailing stemmed perennial herb with woody crown and taproot.
Several stems to 40” high. Stems and leaves densely haired. 5-15 elliptical
leaflets, 1 ¼” long and up to 7/8” wide, along a 2-6” leaf blade. Numerous,
loosely arranged elongated group of flowers at ends. 5 petaled rose-purple
flowers ½” long April to September. Legume like seed pod 1 ½“ long and 1/3”
broad. Mostly in sandy soils.
|
|
20
|
Lamiaceae
|
Salvia engelmannii (Engelmann’s sage)
|
Perennial herb from a woody taproot to about 16” high, hairy
stems often forming dense clumps. Sticky to the touch linear reverse lance
shaped leaves with smooth or somewhat toothed edges to 3 1/8” long and 3/8”
wide. Spike of pale lavender violet flowers to 1” arranged in a spike,
April to June. Found on limestone prairies, often in shallow soils, and
limestone hills.
|
|
21
|
Liliaceae
|
Nolina lindheimeriana (Lindheimer’s nolina)
|
Evergreen perennial with a woody underground stem. Numberous
flat, thin leaves 1-3’ long, with margins strongly serrulated with teeth.
Open cluster of yellow green flowers at the end of a stout 2-6’ stem in
spring. Seed capsules winged. Found on limestone hills of open woodlands
and scrubland.
|
|
22
|
Polemoniaceae
|
Phlox pilosa subsp. latisepala (Rough phlox)
|
Erect herbaceous perennial to 18” high. Linear to lance shaped
leaves up to 2 3/8” long and 1/3” broad. Numerous, fragrant, 5 petal, pink,
rose, lavender, purple or sometimes white, 2/3” long flowers in open
terminal cluster April to May. Single seed in each cell. Open woods on dry
slopes, sometimes in grasslands, often over limestone.
|
|
23
|
Polemoniaceae
|
Phlox roemeriana (Golden-eye phlox)
|
Showy winter annual to 14” high. Lower leaves reverse lance
shaped; upper leaves lance shaped. Leaves are up to 2” long and 3/8” wide
and are covered with soft hairs and longer hairs on margin. Purple, pink or
rarely white flowers with large yellow eye bordered in white and arranged
in loose terminal clusters in spring. 3-5 seeds per cell. Found on dry
rocky slopes and limestone barrens.
|
|
24
|
Rosaceae
|
Crataegus brazoria (Brazos hawthorn)
|
No USDA county distribution but on TAMU map. Tree with pale
bark to 30” high and a trunk up to 6” in diameter. Slender zigzag branches,
eventually with a sheen, some ending with a slender gray spine. Leaves oval
to oblong with coarsely serrated margins, 1 ¾ - 2 ½” long and 1 3/16-1
9/16” wide; lustrous, dark yellow green above, pale with short hairs
beneath. Few to many white 19/32” flowers with pink to rose anthers are
arranged in a flat top flower cluster October to November. Sweet, edible, 5/16-19/32”, dull, dark red fruit. Found on stream bottoms or wooded hillsides and
thickets.
|
|
25
|
Rosaceae
|
Prunus minutiflora (Texas almond, Smallflower peachbrush)
|
Low shrub with gray bark and irregular, often zigzag slightly
spiny branches. Often forms a dense mass. Leathery blue gray leaves
oblong-elliptical, 9/32-25-32” long and 3/16-5/16” wide. Male and female
white flowers are on separate shrubs in spring. Inedible, pale brown to
pink red, 1/3-1/2” fruit matures late spring/early summer. Found on limestone
slopes, sandy brushy plains, ledges and in canyons..
|
|
26
|
Scrophulariaceae
|
Castilleja purpurea var. lindheimeri (Lindheimer’s Indian
paintbrush)
|
Upright, densely hairy perennial 8-12” high. Leaves 1-2 pairs
of divergent narrow lateral lobes, linear to lance shaped. Bracts
yellow-orange to red, sometimes brown orange in cone shaped spike March to
May. Calcareous gravelly, sandy or clay soils on hills and prairies. Seeds
numerous.
|
|
27
|
Vitaceae
|
Parthenocissus heptaphylla (Sevenleaf creeper)
|
Not on USDA but shown in Travis and Bell counties so included
here. Vine to 33’ with long forking tendrils. Usually 7 reverse lance
shaped fleshy, thicken leaflets 1 3/16-2” long and about 25/32” wide,
coarsely toothed on margins, glossy on upper surface, turning crimson in
fall. Flat top 1 9/16- 3 1/8” cluster of pendulous green flowers April to
May. Dark-blue to black berries to 3/8” in diameter. Found climbing over
small trees and shrubs in rocky or sandy soils.
|
|
|
|
|
|
1. Ruellia drummondiana (UT)
|
2. Yucca pallida (WFC)
|
3. Yucca rupicola (TAMU)
|
|
|
|
|
|
4. Brickellia dentate (WFC)
|
5. Silphium albiflorum (WFC)
|
6. Lesquerella recurvata (WFC)
|
|
|
|
|
|
7. Triodanis coloradoensis (Winston ranch)
|
8. Lechea san-sabeana (TAMU)
|
9. Tradescantia humilis (WFC)
|
|
|
No image available
|
|
|
10. Dichondra recurvata (UNC)
|
11. Argythamnia simulans
|
12. Euphorbia roemeriana (UT)
|
|
|
No image available
|
No image available
|
|
13. Astragalus crassicarpus var. berlandieri
(WFC)
|
14. Astragalus pleianthus
|
15. Astragalus wrightii
|
|
|
|
|
|
16. Dalea tenuis (USDA)
|
17. Pediomelum
hypogaeum var. scaposum (TAMU)
|
18. Pediomelum
latestipulatum var. appressum (WFC)
|
|
|
|
|
|
19. Tephrosia lindheimeri (WFC)
|
20. Salvia engelmannii (WFC)
|
21. Nolina lindheimeriana (WFC)
|
|
|
|
No image available
|
|
22. Phlox pilosa subsp. latisepala (WFC)
|
23. Phlox roemeriana (WFC)
|
24. Crataegus brazoria
|
|
|
|
|
|
25. Prunus minutiflora (WFC)
|
26. Castilleja purpurea var.
lindheimeri (WFC)
|
27. Parthenocissus heptaphylla (WFC)
|
References:
1.
Correll,
Donovan Stewart and Marshall Conring Johnston, “Manual of the Vascular Plants
of Texas,” University of Texas at Dallas, 4th printing, 1996.
2.
Diggs,
Jr., George M., Barney L. Lipscomb, and Robert J. O’Kennon, “Shinners &
Mahler’s Illustrated Flora of North Central Texas,” Botanical Research
Institute (BRIT), 1999.
3.
Ajilvsgi,
Geyata, “Wildflowers of Texas,” Shearer Publishing, Revised Edition, 2002.
4.
William
R. Carr, “No Place But Texas: An Annotated List of Plant Taxa Endemic to the Long Star State,” The Nature Conservancy of Texas,2002, http://www.nature.org/wherewework/northamerica/states/texas/science/art6069.html
5.
“Vascular
Plants Endemic to Texas,” Flora of Texas Consortium, Texas A&M University,1995, http://www.csdl.tamu.edu/FLORA/endemics/endemic1.htm
6.
Integrated
Taxonomic Information System, http://www.itis.gov/
7.
USDA
Natural Resources Conservation Service, http://plants.usda.gov/
8.
Lady
Bird Johnson Wildflower Center (WFC), http://www.wildflower.org/
9.
Flora
of North America, http://www.fna.org/FNA/
10.
Benny
Simpson’s Texas Native Shrubs, http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/ornamentals/nativeshrubs/
11.
TAMU
image gallery, http://botany.cs.tamu.edu/FLORA/gallery1.htm
12.
University of Texas Native Plant course, http://www.bio.utexas.edu/courses/bio406d/
13.
Winston
Ranch flora along the Sabinal 1, http://botany.cs.tamu.edu/FLORA/WINSTON/bsabinal1.htm
14.
University of North Carolina herbarium, http://www.herbarium.unc.edu/types.htm
15.
Travis
County Flora Project Example for Herbarium Specimen Label, http://www.npsot.org/Austin/TravisCountyFlora/Specimen%20Label%20Example.doc
16.
Vegetation/Cover
Types of Texas, http://www.lib.utexas.edu/geo/fieldguides/vegetationmap2.html
|
|
February Garden Guide
|
|
Propagation
|
 Plant
perennial/annual seeds in greenhouse to mid-month
Mid
month begin hardening off seedlings
Plant
container trees, shrubs, vines outside
End
of month begin planting container perennials, ornamental grasses and ground
covers outside
|
|
Fertilize
|
Seedlings
as required
Add
compost to established planting beds
Root
stimulator for new plants if desired
|
|
Water
|
Newly
planted or transplanted plants
Potted
plants
Plants
as required if weather dry
|
|
Pruning
|
Mow
buffalo grass if needed to reduce thatch if not done in January
Finish
deciduous shade trees and live oak trees
Finish
summer flowering/needle evergreen trees, shrubs and vines
Finish
cutting back or raking ornamental grasses and dormant perennials as desired
Repair
frost damaged plants
Branches
of spring flowering trees and shrubs to bring indoors for forcing into
bloom
|
|
Disease/Pest
Control
|
Apply
corn gluten as a pre-emergent to lawn and beds that will not be seeded
every 6-8 weeks
Use
horticulture oil as required to control scale and other difficult insects
Check
for aphids, white flies, caterpillars, snails and slugs during mild
weather; treat if desired
Cut
annual cool season weeds
Pull
perennial cool season weeds
|
|
Other
|
Keep
bed well mulched; pull back mulch from plants to allow water to evaporate
if receive too much rain
Protect
new plants from hard freezes
Check
irrigation system if not used in winter
Finalize
spring bed planting plan
|
|
|
March Garden Guide
|
|
Propagation
|
Finish
hardening off seedlings
Begin
spring planting of seeds into ground
Begin
planting container annuals mid-month
Begin
planting hanging baskets and new outdoor pots mid-month
Plant
container perennials, ornamental grasses, trees, shrubs, vines and ground
covers outside
Divide
ornamental grasses
|
|
Fertilize
|
Seedlings
as required
Test
soil, add amendments as required
Add
compost to established planting beds if not done in February
Add
compost/mulch to potted plants
Add
thin layer of compost to lawn at the end of the month
Root
stimulator for new plants if desired
Fertilize
all pond plants beginning end of month
|
|
Water
|
Newly
planted or transplanted plants
Potted
plants
Begin
supplemental water for non-drought tolerant plants and lawn as required
|
|
Pruning
|
Begin
lawn mowing as required if trim look desired
|
|
Disease/Pest
Control
|
Apply
corn gluten as a pre-emergent to lawn and beds that will not be seeded if
not done in February
Check
for aphids, scale, white flies, tripes, caterpillars, loopers, snails and
slugs; treat if desired
At
end of month, begin checking for mildew, black and leaf spot, fire blight
and other diseases; treat if needed
Cut
annual weeds; pull perennial weeds
|
|
Other
|
Keep
beds well mulched; pull back mulch from more tender plants to warm soil
Stake
leaning or falling plants if desired
Protect
new plants from hard freezes
Grass
roots are being re-established; don’t disturb roots by aerating or
dethatching
|
|
|
Resource
List
|
Garden Centers
|
Barton Springs
Nursery
3601 Bee Caves Road
Austin, Texas 78746
512-328-6655
|
Bloomers Garden Center
507 HWY 95 North
Elgin, Texas 78621
512-281-2020
www.bloomerselgin.com
|
Forever Garden
6970 Williams Drive
Georgetown, Texas 78628
512-868-3373
www.ForeverGardens.com
|
|
Green and Growing
601 West Pecan Street
Pflugerville, Texas 78660
512-251-3262
|
McIntire’s Garden Center
303 Leander Road
Georgetown, Texas
512-863-8243
www.mcintiresgarden.com
|
Sunshine Landscape & Garden Center
2002 HWY 620 South
Austin, Texas 78734
512-263-5275
www.sunshineaustin.com
|
|
Sweet Briar Nursery
48-B FM 2271
Belton, Texas 76513
254-780-4233
www.vvm.com/~reid
|
The Natural Gardener
8648 Old Bee Cave Road
Austin, Texas 78735
512-288-6113
www.naturalgardeneraustin.com
|
|
Wholesale Nurseries
|
Hill Country Natives
308 Mesa Oaks Drive
Leander, Texas 78641
512-259-0253
www.hillcountrynatives.biz
|
Native Texas Nursery
16019 Milo Road
Austin, Texas 78725
512-276-9801
|
|
Seed Source
|
Wildflower Center
|
|
Native American Seed
127 North 16th Street
Junction, Texas 76849
1-800-728-4043
http://www.seedsource.com/
|
Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center
4801 La Crosse Avenue
Austin, Texas 78739
512-292-4200
www.wildflower.org
|
Web Sources
|
|
Club
Information
|
Club Meetings
2nd Thursday of each
month at 7:00 PM
Williamson County Extension Office
3151 SE Inner Loop
Road, Suite A
Georgetown, Texas
Website and email list:
http://npsot.org/WilliamsonCounty/
Club Positions
|
Position
|
Name
|
Telephone
|
|
President
|
Phyllis Dolich
|
512-869-0356
|
|
Past President
|
Billye Adams
|
512-863-9636
|
|
Secretary
|
Kathryn LeBlanc
|
512-773-4573
|
|
Treasure
|
Kathy Galloway
|
512-259-7350
|
|
Program
|
Susan Waitz
|
512-793-3748
|
|
Field Trips
|
Marilyn Perz
|
512-864-3828
|
|
Membership
|
Kathy Mitchamore
|
512-259-0253
|
|
Volunteer Coordinator
|
Janet Church
|
512-585-0996
|
|
Historian
|
Agnes Plutino
|
512-863-0421
|
|
Heritage Gardens
|
Marilyn Perz
|
512-864-3828
|
|
Web Master
|
Jason Spangler, jasons@wumple.com
|
512-249-7868
|
|
Newsletter
|
Janice Charnley
|
512-863-7355
|
Membership Application
|
Name
|
|
|
Street Address
|
|
|
City
|
|
|
State
|
|
|
Zip Code
|
|
|
Phone
|
|
|
E-mail
|
|
|
New/Renewal
|
|
|
Address Change
|
|
|
Chapter
|
Williamson County
|
|
Dues (Effective
4/1/06)
|
Send application and check to:
|
|
·
Student
|
$15.00
|
NPSOT State Office
PO Box 3017
Fredericksburg, TX 78624
830-997-9272
|
|
·
Senior
(Age 65)
|
$20.00
|
|
·
Senior
Couples
|
$30.00
|
|
·
Individual
|
$25.00
|
|
·
Couple/Family
|
$40.00
|
|
