Twenty-five NPSOT Big Bend and other community members visited the Miller ranch west of Valentine on October 19. Albert, Walter, Bill and Jill Miller gave us a warm welcome at the ranch headquarters, where we were also met by a number of good-natured ranch dogs. It was a beautiful day for a ranch tour, with a blue sky and cool temperatures. We loaded everyone into high-clearance and all-terrain vehicles and proceeded to the fort. A flat tire on one of the ATVs did not stop us from reaching the fort. We found well preserved buildings with exquisite stonework topped off with slate roofs. Most of the buildings were in very good shape considering they are around 100 years old. The old iron stoves were still in the kitchen and old bunk beds were scattered through the barracks. The shooting range still had a number of spent cartridges lying about the grounds. A monument was erected that describes the fort site as the last battle with the Apaches around the 1880’s. This is truly a historic site.
The fort is in a valley surrounded by mountains with only two ways in and out. It is situated next to a canyon that has a natural spring. While the spring does not flow as it did in the past, it does support a nice riparian area with great flora and fauna about. This includes a very healthy grape vine that I am sure has provided sustenance to many in the past. The dogs had a great time chasing each other in the water. In the early 20th century, a pipeline was laid from the spring to a grazing pasture for the cattle and to the ranch house to provide water and cool milk to keep it fresh. The pipeline was very impressive as it was about 8” diameter and runs for miles.
A geologist friend of mine requested that I ask Albert about the great quake in the early 1930’s. Albert did indeed have a story for us. He said that his grandfather was in the house when the quake struck. He gathered his children (including Albert’s father) and ran from the house. The chimney fell right next to them as they made a narrow escape. He said that the only damage was to the chimney.
On the way back to the ranch house we investigated an Indian campsite that had some arrowheads as well as rock formations that Tim Roberts (an archeologist) indicated were likely locations for stick housing used by the inhabitants. He also pointed to a large ring of stacked rocks that he said may have been a corral used to contain horses.
We all had a wonderful day. Thank you, Albert, Walter, Bill and Jill, for a fantastic trip.
Tom Kennedy
Program Director
Treasurer
